Unions push for a Just Transition in the textile and garment sector

Providing an overview of the industry, which employs more than 300 million workers globally, IndustriALL’s Christina Hajagos-Clausen pointed out the challenges of informal work, inadequate social protection and inequalities in social dialogue. 

The growing pressure on brands to integrate circular economy principles will impact jobs in the industry. Participants from South Africa raised concerns about the influx of second-hand clothing disrupting local industries, stressing the need to boost intra-African trade to foster sustainable growth. 

“There is not a one-size-fits-all solution; we need tailored solutions that address regional and sectoral disparities. As unions, we need to ensure we have a strong role and a strong political position,” said Christina Hajagos-Clausen.

IndustriALL gender director Armelle Seby and industriAll Europe’s Maike Niggemann, emphasized the absence of gender equality in existing Just Transition plans, urging unions to adopt a gender-transformative approach, addressing systemic inequalities such as occupational segregation and unequal pay. This topic will be further developed in a joint project by industriAll Europe and IndustriALL Global. 

“Access to reskilling and upskilling programmes must be equitable. We need quotas to ensure that women are not left behind in emerging green jobs.”

IndustriAll Europe presented some their work with their textile social partners, the European Commission, and the ILO on working towards a Just Transition in the TCLF sectors. At cross sectoral level, industriAll Europe has developed a Just Transition Manifesto in consultation with affiliates, calling for comprehensive Just Transition legal framework with strengthened rights to social dialogue, and the establishment of an EU Just Transition Observatory. The possibility of using some of these demands for a textiles sector global handbook for a Just Transition was raised. 

Judith Kirton Darling, General Secretary for industriAll Europe said:

“Just Transition means ”Nothing about us, without us”. Workers must have the rights, capacities and resources to anticipate and manage the change. This poses major challenges in the global textile supply chain with many informal non-organized workers. European brands must take their commitments globally and ensure that the transition is fair along the supply chain.’’

Belgium’s trade unions provided a national win after much negotiation with companies with over 20 employees now being are required to negotiate annual training plans with unions. This ensures workers receive training aligned with transition needs, a model that could be replicated elsewhere.

Accountability and corporate responsibility

Participants were unanimous in holding brands accountable for their role in the sector’s challenges. US union Workers United stressed that voluntary measures are insufficient and legally binding agreements are needed ensure brands contribute to worker protection funds. 

The ITUC JTC’s director, Giulia Laganà, agreed. “It is not up to consumers to change a system that is broken – corporates, governments and multilateral institutions need to act to clean up value chains, ensuring real social and environmental sustainability”. 

SEWA India highlighted the plight of informal and home-based workers, many of whom lack minimum wages or social protection and called on brands in the global North to be held accountable calling for a global framework that enforces labour rights throughout supply chains.

Bulgarian participants pointed out the potential opportunities and challenges of the move to a more circular economy stressing recycling companies claim to be a part of the circular economy, but that the workers are not organized and there is no collective bargaining. A clear example of the demand for new ‘’green’’ jobs to be decent jobs with workers’ rights including freedom of association to be respected and participants were encouraged to identify growth areas like textile recycling.

The workshop concluded with a consensus on developing a political document and roadmap for textile workers worldwide to help navigate the move to more sustainable production while ensuring a Just Transition for all. The manifesto will outline union priorities, sector-specific solutions, and practical tools for achieving a Just Transition.